![]() ![]() I'm also wondering how I can drain it all.buy a can of ATE gold? What sucks is I just bought a can of ATE blue (mail order with other parts).īecause my pervious MSM was tracked ten or more times a year and subjected to very high brake fluid temps, I had the brake system flushed once a year with ATE Super Blue - that's relatively low cost protection for tracked Miatas. Pep Boys told me my fluid was dirty, but I don't know how they can tell (just looks blue to me!) Is that right? I'm just concerned that if water is absorbed (which is possible since it is more hygroscopic than DOT3 stock fluid), bleeding it will help if there's air in the line but only temporarily if the fluid has water in it. I've been reading that with ATE, you need to flush it every year. I just bought a Motive power bleeder, so I'm hoping either way the job shouldn't be too tough. Then again, it's not like the fluid is that expensive, and I'd have peace of mind that I have fresh fluid. The pedal doesn't feel too spongy, so not sure if a full flush is needed. Since I need to replace my pads/rotors all around, figured I'd either flush or bleed the system. I bought my 99 Sport last summer, and the owner claimed he had recently put in new ATE blue brake fluid but did a poor job bleeding it. I'm trying to figure out if I need to bleed my brakes or flush the system. Is brake bleeding just opening/closing the bleeder valve until you don't see bubbles anymore, whereas flushing is draining all the old fluid and replacing it? Hope someone can clear up some confusion, as I can't find a clear answer on this. ![]()
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